我心中的哈尔滨
诗篇31:15上 “我众生的事在你的手中……”(和合本)
诗篇31:15上 “我的一生都在你的手中……”(圣经新译本)
- 注:教会一位弟兄回国时路过哈尔滨分享了一些索菲亚大教堂的照片,这促使我有感而发,写一点儿关于哈尔滨的故事作为留念,与大家分享。
哈尔滨素有东方明珠的美誉,被称为“东方小巴黎”。由王刚所播讲的“夜幕下的哈尔滨”伴随着我童年的成长,尽管对这部广播剧的内容一无所知,但它的标题却给我留下无限的回忆和遐想。
97年第一次离开鹤岗的家门,参加南京金陵协和神学的入学考试将我带到这座城市。从鹤岗到哈尔滨晚上9点多乘坐火车到早晨5点多到站。当火车缓缓驶入哈尔滨车站站台的时候,播音员说着最纯正的普通话:“各位乘客,哈尔滨火车站马上就要到了,请您收拾好行李,准备下车。哈尔滨是一座世界名城,每年的冰雪大世界,圣索菲亚大教堂……油炸冰棍,哈尔滨红肠等都让人流连忘返……祝您旅途愉快!欢迎您下次乘坐本次列车。”
那年考试的地点设在南岗基督教堂,考试的结果是一个月后收到一张“不录取通知书”。那次最深刻的是有7-8位一起参加考试的考生。当时的南岗大街上坐落着三座教堂,一座是新教教堂——我们信的基督教,那里聚会的人数最多,每周日会有好几次敬拜,大家都是排着队才能找到座位。与它挨着的是一座东正教教堂——人数很少,信徒多为中俄混血。我们当时很感兴趣去了解,想去那间教堂里找人交通学习相关的知识。当时遇见一位师母。她态度很不友善,并说:“你们要找教堂,你们到对面的天主教去吧,那里有神父和修女”。看来,他们尽管有外在豪华的建筑,却没有传福音的心。难怪他们最后只是沦为公众参观的外在摆设。接着,那天下午,我们几个同学去了对面的天主教,第一次见到了神父和修女,并参加他们的弥撒。一切都很新奇,我们也为着神父终身不娶、修女完全奉献给主,委身服侍而感动。考完试之后,几位同学逛哈尔滨夜市,在路灯下谈论着每个人对未来的期许和盼望。
98年我再次来到哈尔滨参考南京神学院入学考试,这次我们没有在市中心,而是到了距离市中心很远的万宝镇参加考试,因为那时万宝镇上办了一个省一级的圣经学校。好像是经过两次倒车,大概需要3个小时能到达。那次考试,我心里压力很大,在上帝面前祷告说:“主啊,如果今年我考不上南京,我就再也不考南京神学院了(在中国官方基督教最高学府)。我也许只是上一个地方的圣经学校或者东北神学院(坐落在沈阳)就可以了却余生了……”。考试前一夜,在学校的晚祷会上,有位女同学也是考生。她祷告说:“不在乎那定意的,也不在乎那奔跑的,只在乎发怜悯的神。” 结果,那次考试出奇顺利。我考试前复习的内容考试时都有出现。真是奇妙!考完试时,有一位在厨房工作的姐妹看到我对我说:“弟兄你能考上,我看你一直都在不住地祷告”。考试结束后,半夜10点多再次乘坐火车返回鹤岗的路上,我一路流泪,心中感谢上帝,知道里面有一个很清楚的声音说:“你要离开黑龙江了。今年我要带你去南京了”。那一年8月底,我又一次来到哈尔滨,与另一位同学汇合,一起乘坐南下的火车,奔向南京神学院读书。
那之后,在南京读书的7年里,我至少有8-9次到哈尔滨这座城市转车。每次都是擦肩而过,匆匆而去。当98年人不轻狂枉少年的游子背起行囊离开鹤岗老家的那个时刻,心中有一个声音说:“有一天,我会把你带到一个非常非常遥远的地方,你从未去过,也不知道它在哪里”。因为那个更遥远声音的呼唤,我从未将哈尔滨纳入我人生的规划中。然而,事与愿违,在2005年南京神学院硕士毕业那年,最不想去的地方就是哈尔滨。不过,我们要小心,也许你最不想作的事情往往就是上帝最想让你去作的事情。尽管毕业前在选择未来服侍禾场上有许多挣扎,也曾尝试去南方看是否要到那里服侍。然而,当坐在南方的一座教堂里敬拜时,眼泪止不住地流。圣灵在心中责备说:“难道你因为考虑物质的供应就不回哈尔滨吗?回去吧,那里的学生们等着你呢”。带着无奈,带着不甘,也带着对大城市的眷恋与不舍,2005年7月我再次来到哈尔滨,经过近3个小时,到了黑龙江圣经学校准备担任神学老师。在万宝镇的三年是学习谦卑的三年,那三年是历练品格的三年,那三年像摩西在米甸旷野、大卫逃避扫罗王追杀的三年。最不喜欢的三年却是人生最好的三年。最不想去的地方,却是满藏属灵金子的地方。到那个万宝镇的路灯下行走时,想到的是:“黑暗给我了黑色的眼睛,我却用它寻找光明”。走的时候说:“轻轻地我走了,正如我轻轻地来。不带走一片云……”
难道这座城市里就没有我值得留恋的地方吗?当然有。在这座城市的万宝镇上经历了主数不尽的恩典,许多长辈和弟兄姐妹的关怀爱心,学生的成长和发展,同学的鼓励和代祷都是珍藏心中的珍宝。在哈尔滨,我遇见一位主里弟兄和他妈妈曾无偿的爱心接待我在他家里住过一个学期,然而因为准备托福考试,心里一心想的就是背英文单词,从未留心品尝过霓虹灯下哈尔滨的韵味。在那里,我遇见一对传教士夫妇最终作为我申请美国大学的推荐人。在那里,我们曾参加一个南岗教堂的英语团契。2017年夏天在哈尔滨天鹅饭店里发生的一幕仍记忆犹新。当时有五个省的牧者同工参加一个神学研讨会。会议最后一天,沈阳的一位牧师带我到游泳池里学游泳。开始在一米深的泳池边,慢慢离开泳池边走到中间时我不小心落入深水中。那一刻惊恐向我袭来,我在水里挣扎。头脑里回想起小说《荆棘鸟》里一位年轻神父戴恩在水里被溺死的情形。同时,我想象假如这时我死了,我的妈妈、我的家人、我的学生一定会极其难过的。故此,我在水里拼命地挣扎。当时感觉到似乎有一双手把我拉回到岸边。这时救生人员才向我伸出救生杆。在岸上的人都为我捏了一把汗。牧师和我返回宾馆,我们一同向上帝献上感恩的祈祷。尽管我没有学会游泳,却学会了一项更深刻的功课:“原来死亡离我如此之近。每个人都要珍惜生命”。
2013年10月份我第一次回国探再次路过这座城市,心中有无限感慨。哈尔滨,我对你有许多亏欠,尽管在那里的万宝镇住过三年,却从未有机会欣赏过冰雪大世界。哈尔滨,我从未长久驻足仔细欣赏你的优雅古典之美,也没有真正敞开双臂拥抱过你。哈尔滨,这座让我魂牵梦绕的城市,你是我生命中的朋友,但我从来不属于你,你也不属于我。然而,在人生旅程的点点滴滴,在你那里我可以找寻回忆,更可以追逐上帝无形之手的蛛丝马迹。
The Harbin City in My Heart
Psalm 31: 15 “ My times are in your hands.” (NIV)
- Note: A church brother travelled by Harbin on his way back to China and shared some photos of the Saint Sophia Cathedral in Harbin. This inspired me to write a few stories about Harbin as a souvenir and share them with everyone.
Harbin is known as the Oriental Pearl and the “Little Paris of the East.” The “Harbin Enveloped in Darkness” narrated by Wang Gang accompanied me during my childhood. Although I knew nothing about the content of this radio drama, its title left me with endless memories and imagination.
I left my home in Hegang for the first time in 1997 to take the entrance exam for Nanjing Union Theological Seminary (hereinafter referred to as NUTS ), which brought me to the Capital City Harbin of my province Heilongjiang. I took the train from Hegang to Harbin at around 9 pm and arrived at the station at around 5 am. When the train slowly pulled into the platform of Harbin Station, the announcer spoke in the purest Mandarin: “Dear passengers, Harbin Railway Station is coming soon. Please pack your luggage and prepare to get off. Harbin is a world-famous city. Every year, the Harbin Ice and Snow World, St. Sophia Cathedral… fried popsicles, Harbin red sausage, etc. are all fascinating… I wish you a pleasant journey! Welcome to take this train next time.”
The exam location that year was set up at the Nangang Christian Church. The result of the exam was that I received a “notification of non-admission” one month later. The most memorable thing about that time was that there were 7-8 candidates who took the exam together. At that time, there were three churches on Nangang Street. One was a Protestant church – the Christianity we believed in, where the largest number of people gathered. There were several worship services every Sunday, and everyone had to line up to find a seat. Next to it was an Orthodox church – there were very few people, and most of the believers were Chinese and Russian mixed race. We were very interested in learning about it at the time and wanted to go to that church to find someone to communicate with and learn related knowledge. At that time, I met a pastor’s wife. Her attitude was very unfriendly, and she said: “If you want to find a church, you can go to the Catholic Church across the street. There are priests and nuns there.” It seems that although they have luxurious buildings on the outside, they have no heart to spread the gospel. No wonder they ended up being reduced to tourist attractions. Then, that afternoon, several of us went to the Catholic Church across the street, met priests and nuns for the first time, and attended their mass. Everything was new and we were moved by the fact that priests never married and nuns devoted themselves to the Lord and served Him wholeheartedly. After the exam, several students went to the Harbin Night Market and talked about everyone’s expectations and hopes for the future under the streetlights.
In 1998, I came to Harbin again to take the entrance exam for NUTS. This time, we did not take the exam in the city center, but in Wanbao Town, which was far away from the city center, because at that time there was a provincial-level Bible school in Wanbao Town. It seemed that it took about 3 hours to get there after two reverses. During that exam, I was under great pressure and prayed to God, “Lord, if I fail to pass the exam in Nanjing this year, I will never take the exam for this Seminary again (it is regarded as the highest official Christian institution in China). I may just go to a local Bible school or Northeast Theological Seminary (located in Shenyang)…” The night before the exam, at the school’s evening prayer meeting, there was a female classmate who was also a candidate. She prayed, “It does not, therefore, depend on man’s desire or effort, but on God’s mercy.” As a result, the exam went surprisingly smoothly. The content I reviewed before the exam appeared in the exam. It was amazing! After the exam, a sister who worked in the kitchen saw me and said to me, “Brother, you can pass the exam. I see that you have been praying all the time.” After the exam, I took the train back to Hegang at 10:00 pm. I could not hold my tears all the way and thanked God in my heart. I knew there was a very clear voice inside saying, “You are leaving Heilongjiang. This year I will take you to Nanjing.” At the end of August that year, I came to Harbin again and met up with another classmate. We took the train southward and headed to NUTS to study.
After that, during the 7 years I studied in Nanjing, I changed trains in Harbin at least 8-9 times. Every time, we passed by each other and left in a hurry. When I packed my bags and left my hometown in Hegang in 1998, there was a voice in my heart saying, “One day, I will take you to a very, very far away place that you have never been to and don’t know where it is.” Because of the call of that more distant voice, I never included Harbin in my life plan. However, things did not go as I wished. In 2005, the year I graduated from NUTS with a master’s degree, the place I least wanted to go was Harbin. However, we must be careful, perhaps the thing you least want to do is often the thing God wants you to do the most. Although I had many struggles in choosing the future field of service before graduation, I also tried to go to the south to see if I should serve there. However, when I was sitting in a church in the south of China to worship, I couldn’t stop my tears. The Holy Spirit rebuked me in my heart, saying, “Are you not going back to Harbin because of material supply? Go back, the students there are waiting for you.” With helplessness, reluctance, and a longing for the big city, I came to Harbin again in July 2005. After nearly 3 hours, I arrived at Heilongjiang Bible School to prepare to be a theology teacher. The three years at Wanbao Town were three years of learning humility, three years of traning character, and three years like Moses in the wilderness of Midian and David escaping from King Saul’s pursuit. The three years I disliked the most were the best three years of my life. The place I least wanted to go was a place full of spiritual gold. When I walked under the street lights at Wanbao Town, I thought: “Darkness gave me black eyes, but I use them to look for light.” When I left, I said: “I left quietly, just as I came quietly. I won’t take away a cloud…”
Are there anything in this city that I should miss? Of course there are. I have experienced countless graces from the Lord at Wanbao Town of this city. The care and love of many elders and brothers and sisters, the growth and development of students, and the encouragement and prayers of classmates are all treasures in my heart. In Harbin, I met a brother in the Lord and his mother who had welcomed me in his home for a semester without any compensation. However, because I was preparing for the TOEFL test, I was only thinking about memorizing English words and never paid attention to the charm of Harbin under the neon lights. There, I met a missionary couple who eventually became my recommenders for applying to American university. There, we participated in an English fellowship at a Nangang church. A scene that happened in Harbin Swan Hotel in the summer of 2017 is still fresh in my memory. At that time, pastors and coworkers from five provinces attended a theological seminar. On the last day of the meeting, a pastor from Shenyang took me to the swimming pool to learn how to swim. I started at the edge of the one-meter-deep pool, and when I slowly left the edge of the pool and walked to the middle, I accidentally fell into the deep water. At that moment, terror struck me and I struggled in the water. I recalled the scene in the novel “The Thorn Birds” where a young priest named Dane drowned in the water. At the same time, I imagined that if I died at this time, my mother, my family, and my students would be extremely sad. Therefore, I struggled desperately in the water. Suddenly I felt as if a pair of hands pulled me back to the shore. Only then did the lifeguard extend a life-saving pole to me. Everyone on the shore was worried about me. The pastor and I returned to the hotel and we offered a prayer of thanksgiving to God together. Although I did not learn to swim, I learned a deeper lesson: “Death is so close to me; everyone should cherish life.”
In October 2013, I returned to China for the first time and passed by this city again. I was filled with emotion. Harbin, I owe you a lot. Although I lived at Wanbao Town there for three years, I never had the opportunity to see the Harbin Ice and Snow World. Harbin, I never stopped to appreciate your elegant and classical beauty, nor did I really open my arms to embrace you. Harbin, this city that haunts my soul, you are my friend in life, but I never belong to you, and you don’t belong to me either. However, in every bit of my life journey, I can find memories in you, and I can also chase the clues of God’s invisible hand through you.